It’s called Rangelove xx.
It’s called Rangelove xx.
South London-based label KNWLS puts an edgy twist on ‘2000s starlet elegance’ at London Fashion Week this season.
Led by design duo Charlotte Knowles and Alexandre Arcenaut, the brand’s SS23 line features brand staples such as ultra-low-rise jeans, cross-hatch lacework and rugged leather outerwear. Meanwhile, the collection pops with ethereal hues and abstract silhouettes, imbuing the work with an avant-garde forward-thinking element.
The first few looks of the show spotlighted hazy patterns, setting an exciting grunge tone that evokes nostalgia. Breathable gowns line a bleached floral canvas that stretches across contrasting garments. This sepia-tone design is reminiscent of vintage film rolls, with gleaming metal studs adding a gritty touch.
The collection’s bleach pattern morphs seamlessly into acid-wash denim, transporting us to London’s pop grunge scene in the early 2000s. A mix of industrial and delicate, thick-stitched Jean buttoned his miniskirt and matched it with a faded plaid bodysuit that zigzagged down his torso. Olive-tone gauze his sweater enhances the look with subtle accents on the hem and sleeves, creating a layered effect that ties the look together.
KNWLS integrates the first half of the show into an artful punk multi-garment display. An acid wash returns to a well-worn Tencel trench coat, cinched in at the waist under a chunky studded belt. This outer layer drapes with effortless elegance while leaning into its heavy nature. Twisted across a set of form-fitting pant tops, the underpiece is light and graceful, a clever contrast with statement denim.
Rounding out the look are coiled earrings with gold and clear resin bangles, designed in collaboration with Parisian jeweler Marco Panconesi. This statement piece feels understated and dynamic, highlighting the hardware detailing on the trench his coat and belt.
A nude toned corset completes the show with an intimate and understated look. The structured garment serves as the centerpiece of the flowing trousers and translucent top, both printed with her KNWLS signature plaid. This look encapsulates the collection’s focus on weighty, airy combos, high-contrast pairings the brand masters.
SS23 is a win for Knowles and Arsenault. Their latest collection is a testament to thoughtful risk-taking. The design is moody and celebratory, and KNWLS navigates its challenging niche with beautiful confidence.
